Tuesday, September 18, 2012

Little Kneck Clams Steamed in a Habanero Chive Broth



Growing up my parents were not great fans of sea food so we didn't partake.  We grew up on the smells of pot roasts braising in the oven for Sunday dinner.  My grandmother who I called Meme, would occassionally fry up some catfish  that my grandfather and my brothers, father and uncles whould catch in the Lake at Fort Cobb.  She would serve it up with a side of red beans and corn bread.  But that was the extent of my sea food palate. 

My wife grew up on the Jersey shore where she was exposed to an array of ocean critters and it has been through her that I have expanded my sea food horizons.  Most of the meals I cook are for her and this first entry is my nod to her and her coastal roots.  She was the one who encouraged me to put this blog together and so it is only fitting that the firsts dish be in her honor.

I wanted to use one of her favorite foods, clams and I wanted to fuse it with influences from one of my favorite chefs Mario Batali.  I had the pleasure of eating at his flagship restaurant, Babbo a few months ago and have never tasted yummier food.  This is a simple Babbo inspired dish of Little Kneck Clams that I steamed in a broth of white wine, habanero, tomato and chives. 

Clams have a flavor that is truly like breathing in the briny Jersey shore air.  The little knecks that I got at Whole Foods are reminiscent of those Jersey Clams my wife introduced me to at some dive in her home town.  But beyond that I'm a Texan who loves a little heat so kicking these clams up a level with a habanero seemed in order.  I'm slowly trying to introduce my wife to the wonders of a little heat.  I try not to overpower her by keeping balance in mind and I think this dish does just that. 

If you've never worked with habaneros before, be careful, they pack a wallup.  Parsimony is required.  By all means wear kitchen gloves and for God's sake don't touch your eyes after handling one, they will burn like you've just been shot with mace. 

Alright, enough chit chat.  Let's get to it.

What you will need:

1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
1/2 red onion finely chopped
4 garlic cloves sliced
1 habanero finely diced
1 bunch of chives cut in 1 inch pieces
2 lbs of Little Kneck Clams
2 cups dry white wine
1/2 cup of Mario Batali's basic tomato sauce (recipe follows)
Kosher Salt
Finely cracked black pepper to taste




1. In a 3 quart sauce pan, heat the olive oil on high until just about smoking (keep a keen eye on this, olive oil has a pretty low smoke point if it reaches the smoke point it becomes upalatable).  Add the onions and garlic and cook for 5 minutes, or until soft and lightly browned. (Do not over brown the garlic as it will become bitter; sauteing until just golden gives the garlic a nuttiness that provides more complexity to the overall dish). 


Add the chile, half of the chives, the clams, wine and tomato sauce and bring to a boil. 





Cover and cook until all the clams steam open, about 5 minutes.  Discard any clams that do not open.




2. Season the broth with salt and pepper.  Divide the clams and broth evenly among four warmed bowls, top with remaining chives, and serve with your favorite bread.


Mario Batali's Basic Tomato Sauce

If you don't have this recipe you will do yourself a big favor by having it as one of your staples.  It is simple and is an ingredient you can add to mountains of recipes.  You can use it as part of your braising liquid for pot roast along with stock and a good wine.  You can use it for spaghetti as the base for a bolognese.  It makes about 4-6 cups; you can freeze it and use it as needed.  By the way, when you make this the aroma will make everyone in your house homicidal with hunger.  Take out a good insurance policy. 

What you will need:
¼ cup extra virgin olive oil
1 spanish onion, finely diced
4 garlic cloves, peeled and thinly sliced
3 tablespoons chopped fresh thyme (or 1tsp dry)
½ medium carrot, finely shredded (sounds weird for tomato sauce, but this adds sweetness without adding sugar)
2 23-ounce cans of San Marzano peeled whole tomatoes
Kosher salt, to taste

In a 3-quart saucepan, heat the olive oil over medium heat.  Add the onion and garlic and cook until soft and light golden brown, 8-10 minutes.  



Add the thyme and carrot and cook for 5 minutes more, or until the carrot is soft. 


With your hands, crush the tomatoes and add them with their juices.  Bring to a boil, strirring often,


 and then lower the heat and simmer for 30 minutes, or until the sauce is as thick as hot cereal. 

Season with salt and serve.  If you prefer a smoother texture you can puree it in a blender or food processor. 

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